Raw Feeding
Why do we feed our dogs a raw diet?  
Simple answer, it is what they are naturally designed to eat.  
Dogs are carnivores and have digestive systems that are perfectly
adapted to breaking down bone and animal proteins.  The canine
GI tract is short and smooth which means they do not harbor
bacteria (such as E-coli).  The ripe, rotted meat that would make
us sick passes harmlessly through the dog's system.  
Kibble is a highly processed, inert, dead source of nutrition.  Most
kibble is made up of primarily grain and other fillers that dogs
just simply can't digest.  Kibble takes a huge amount of time and
energy to break down, and since most of it is unusable to the dog,
there is a large amount of waste (poop).  Kibble is literally
"flushing" money down the drain.  For those that have grown up
knowing no other way to feed a dog, please take to heart that
kibble is a convenience food that has only been in existence since
the mid 1900s.  This begs the question: 'What did dogs eat before
1950??'  --REAL, RAW FOOD!
There are a great many benefits to feeding a natural raw diet.  
Raw fed dogs have beautiful, lush coats, sparkley clean teeth,
stronger immune systems, much less poop & of a healthy
consistency, less eye goop, fewer hotspots and allergies, slow even
growth, solid muscle tone, plus so much more I couldn't possibly
list.  Raw fed dogs genuinely enjoy their food!  What more of a
reason would a dog lover need than that!?
We feed Whole Prey Model Raw.  This diet attempts to emulate
the whole, entire prey, a piece at a time, where the "whole prey" is
cut up into single serving portions.  
We feed a ratio of approximately 80% meat, 10% bone, and 10%
secreting organ (made up of as much liver and kidney as possible).  
It is fed at a rate between 1.5% to 3.5% of total ideal adult body
weight.  We adjust this amount to fit the dog and the dog's
activity level based on body condition and poop consistency.  This
amount does NOT have to be the exact same amount every day.  
This is a diet that is balanced over time and not at each and every
meal (much the same way people eat).
We feed our adult Danes once per day, in the evening.  Their food
is served in their bowls on a large, thick towel.  Meals are eaten
in a natural posture on the ground, which recent studies have
indicated is much more beneficial in preventing bloat than the
traditional raised feeder view.  
We don't generally feed anything other than raw meat, edible
bone, and organs.  
Veggies do not form a necessary part of
the diet
given that dogs are carnivores following their
physiology, and  because veggies and fruit have been found to
form only about 1% of the grey wolf's natural diet.

- Meat: this is muscle meats. Muscle attached to bones, and also
parts of the body that are organs, but are muscular in nature (non-
secreting).  This includes, tongue, heart, gizzards, trachea, skin
(yes skin secretes, but it secretes waste through water and salt
aka sweat OUT of the body, so we don't count that).  I count
stomach as a muscle meat.

- Edible bone: weight-bearing bones of large mammals are teeth
breakers due to their high density and are therefore not very
edible.  Edible bones tend to be less dense, more porous.  Edible
bones range from chickens, to turkey, to duck, to fish, to rabbit,
to pork, to goat, to lamb.  Beef ribs are semi-edible for giants such
as Danes, and make excellent chews, as do beef knuckle bones.

- Secreting organs: liver should be half the organ allotment. The
rest can be made up of kidney, spleen, thymus, pancreas, lung,
testicles (mountain oysters), brains.   
NOTE: remember, we call it prey model because we try to
appropriate the whole prey through various body parts at various
times.  It's a prey built over time.  So again, this ratio can be met
over time.

-Poop:  If your dog is straining slightly, and the poops come out
crumbly and powdery and once they hit the ground, they fall
apart, that's generally too much bone.  If the poops are squishy
and have no form (NOT diarrhea), then feed a tad more bone.  It
doesn't take a huge bone tweak to make a difference in the poop.

-Raw Feeding a Puppy:  Start off feeding 10% of its current
weight, meaning if a puppy weighs 10 pounds, feed 1 pound per
day.  Once the puppy reaches 30% of its ideal adult body weight,
reduce the percentage to the normal 1.5%-3.5% of
ADULT body
weight.  You will only be feeding 10% for a little while, which is
normal. Its better to split this amount up into several smaller
meals since this will be a lot of food for a little growing puppy.
Remember, this is just a guideline and that every dog is different.  

For example: Jackie--10% of her 8wk weight of ~20 lbs = 2 lbs of
total food per day
30% of 120 lbs adult weight = 36 lbs
So… feed her 10% until she is 35-40 lbs then switch to normal
1.5%-3.5% = 1.8-4.2 lbs (or about 3 lbs) per day, adjusted to fit
the puppy.

When feeding wild game, always freeze in a deep freeze for no
less than 2 weeks before feeding.  This is to kill parasites, such as
Trichinosis.  Most wild game is completely safe to feed, however,
never feed bear or wild boar as they are known to carry a freeze
resistant form of Trichinosis.  Never feed the brain or spinal
column or cord of hoofed animals, such as deer, due to Chronic
Wasting Disease (CWD is not a danger to dogs, however people
and cats are susceptible to the disease, which justifies caution).
Turkey Quarters and Organs
Cornish Hens and Beef Liver
Jackie and Beef Roast
Jackie and Cornish Hen with Beef Liver
Melody and Beef Roast
Scarlet and Cornish Hen
Fresh Chicken Feet
Fresh Deer Ribcage and Neck
**Raw meat and feeding
pictures below**
Deer Sternum, Ribeye, Beef Kidney, Chicken Tenders, and Pepperoni
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Ribeye, Hamburger, Turkey wing, Chicken breatst
Deer Ribs
Beef Heart, Chicken Foot, Misc Deer, & a Hot Dog
Beef Brisquet, Ground Beef, Canned Mackrel, & an Egg
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Stormy and Angel enjoying their beef!
Runt and Holstein chowing down on some beef!
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